Efflorescence occurs
with all concrete and is the most frequent problem that concrete
contractors face with colored concrete. Owners don't always care
about "plain" concrete, but colored concrete is another matter.
It doesn’t matter
whether it is stamped concrete, tile or overlays, or just plain
concrete slabs.
Efflorescence is
caused when soluble salts and other water dispersible materials come
to the surface of concrete and mortars. It's induced by low
temperatures, moist conditions, condensation, rain, dew, and water
added to the surface of fresh concrete to assist troweling. It can
occur very soon after exposure to moist or cool conditions or
gradually, especially when it comes from within the concrete or from
the subgrade.
Any material
containing portland cement results in efflorescence. The most usual
reaction occurs when calcium hydroxide (lime) formed in the
hydration reaction of portland cement (approximately 140 pounds per
cubic yard of concrete) is transported by water to the surface
through capillaries in the concrete.
There it combines
with carbon dioxide from the air to produce calcium carbonate (an
insoluble material) and water.
But efflorescence can
also be caused by hydroxides and sulfates of either sodium or
potassium, which are much more soluble in water than calcium. And
they form efflorescence more rapidly than calcium hydroxide. These
salts can come from cement, aggregates, water, or admixtures.
Efflorescence is
normally white and shows up more on darker colors than white or
light gray because of the contrast. Only 0.2 ounce of calcium
carbonate per square yard of surface is needed to cause a
significant shift in color. Some forms are very difficult (if not
impossible) to remove, while others are easy—especially if they are
removed right after they form.
Removing
efflorescence (some possibilities)
The easiest time to
remove calcium hydroxide efflorescence is before it combines with
carbon dioxide. Up to this time it will dissolve in water, so
pressure washing or wet scrubbing will put it in solution with water
so it can be rinsed away.
You must be careful
to rinse the surface with fresh water so that no residue is left to
dry on the concrete. Use an air jet or a wet vacuum to remove any
standing water. Any remaining solution will cause new efflorescence
to appear.
When efflorescence
proceeds to the calcium carbonate phase, it becomes insoluble and is
much more difficult to remove—perhaps impossible. The application of
a mild acid solution becomes the first course of action. These acids
include vinegar (5% acetic acid), muriatic acid, or citric acid.
Muriatic acid is purchased in full strength and must be diluted. So
it's the most dangerous, requiring proper safety gear.
After acid washing or
simple power washing, slabs should be rinsed thoroughly and
neutralized with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) or an equivalent.
Acid residues can harm plants. The reaction products of acid on
concrete are all soluble calcium and iron salts, which can cause
more efflorescence.
When efflorescence
can't be removed with acid washes, other commercial products are
available. One is ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), which
rapidly dissolves calcium salts. EDTA will also damage concrete, so
it's best to test it on an inconspicuous sample area first.
Preventing
efflorescence
There are a few
things you can do to reduce the possibility of efflorescence.
Including either Class-F fly ash or metakaolin can lock up
significant amounts of calcium hydroxide in the concrete. And as
stated earlier, the efflorescence reaction is driven by water,
either water from above or below a slab.
Only vapor
barriers/moisture block polymers can prevent the movement of
moisture from the subgrade to the surface of a slab. And the
application of sealers and coatings can prevent surface water from
penetrating slabs. Apply them as soon as surfaces are clean and dry.
The final thought
The white film, known
as efflorescence, and contrary to most Paver Stone Manufacturers
will not simply go away; it is a hardened calcium deposit which is a
by -product of concrete hydration. It needs to be removed and sealed
to stop further migration of the efflorescence to the "top of the
paver stone surface".
The key phrase is "to
the top of the paver/stone surface". Most stone patio or driveway
installers do not applied a moisture block chemical to the ground,
before the installation of the concrete/stone surface. That is
because of the added cost, or lack of basic information.
Therefore,
efflorescence will migrate through the concrete/stone floor to the
surface, being held back by the moisture block chemical and sealer.
But, sometimes, it will migrate through the moisture block and
sealer, and lay on top. This will happen because of not applying
‘top of the line" moisture block chemicals or sealers, or it has
"decayed" from time.
Efflorescence
naturally occurs on all concrete. Part of the problem—and the
solution—may have to do with the way colored (polymer or stain)
concrete is sold. Customers often have the idea that their concrete
will have uniform color. But they should be told that concrete has
variable colors, providing an impression of different color depth.
And, the colors will fade.
Another proven
aspect, if water is used for any removal and treatment procedure,
regardless of the amount, there is a good chance that efflorescence
will return within months, or almost certainly within a year.
Our Company has a
two- (2) year warranty for this procedure. If within the first two-
(2) years, after the initial application, if any efflorescence
residue returns, the company will remove the efflorescence.
After the second
year, from the initial application, the complete application would
revert to the price previously given, for the same footage.
Remember, no one can guarantee when the efflorescence will return in
force. Our program safely covers your investment in our service.